So many photos!

This post was a tough one to curate — there were just so many great shots to choose from. I’ve tried to capture the essence of each town because, guess what? They’re all truly unique in their own way. I want you to feel like you’re right here with me. Visiting Puglia was such an enjoyable experience — it felt completely different from anywhere else we’ve travelled in Italy.

Planning this trip wasn’t exactly straightforward

I didn’t know much about Puglia, and—oddly enough—Instagram wasn’t exactly helping. My feed kept throwing out a mix of dreamy towns, beautiful beaches, trulli houses, and delicious food… all stunning but also completely overwhelming. Where do you begin?

Eventually, I turned to Google Maps and started plotting out the distances between the places we were drawn to. It helped me figure out where to base ourselves and, just as importantly, how long to stay in each spot. We didn’t want to spend the whole trip living out of the trunk of our car. We wanted to slow down, settle in, and stay in places that felt rooted in the region.

Where we stayed

For more details about the properties we stayed at, you can read my previous blog post here.

Towns and Villages we visited

Polignano a Mare

This is the money shot. Lama Monachile, also known as Cala Porto, is the iconic cove nestled between dramatic cliffs and accessible via a Roman bridge at the edge of the historic centre. Polignano was much smaller than I expected, but it’s a great spot for lunch or dinner, with plenty of restaurants and bars sprinkled throughout town. Via Roma is a popular area, lined with shops, cafés, and places to grab an aperitivo. And of course, the views are what you came for…they’re stunning. You can easily take it all in within a day.

Monopoli

We loved Monopoli — a charming seaside town with elegant architecture and sun-washed stone buildings. There’s a lovely promenade, perfect for a stroll along the waterfront and getting lost in its maze of narrow streets. We stopped for a drink and took in the views — simple and lovely.

Alberobello

Alberobello is one of those places that’s clearly been discovered. It’s a bit sad, really — you can almost imagine how magical it must have felt before the crowds and souvenir shops took over. If you’re okay with busloads of tourists and streets lined with trulli-shaped fridge magnets, then this is the place. And, we’re travelling in the off-season.

That said, you don’t have to go to Alberobello to see trulli houses — they’re scattered throughout the region. Maybe we just caught it on the wrong day, but for us, it was underwhelming. If you’re short on time, I’d say skip it and head to some of the other prettier towns nearby.

Ostuni

Ostuni is a beautiful hilltop town, often referred to as the “White City” due to its whitewashed buildings. It’s full of charm, with winding streets, scenic views, and something interesting around every corner. You definitely need at least two days to explore at a relaxed pace. Spend one day getting lost in the old town, popping into little shops and cafés, and be sure to return in the evening when the city really comes alive.

Drinks at Borgo Antico Bistrot are a must — the views are incredible, the Adriatic, and olive trees for miles! It’s a lively spot, so get there early to snag a table. They serve plenty of snacks and “nibbles” to go along with your drink, making it a perfect pre-dinner stop. Or just fill up on snacks, all the food looks incredible!

Delicious dinner at Ostuni Bistro, right in the heart of the town centre.

Locotondo

We arrived in Locotondo just as the market was closing, and the rain started to drizzle. It’s a pretty little town, much prettier in the sunshine for sure. We managed to sneak in a coffee in a quiet piazza before the downpour. Luckily, we managed to find two umbrellas and dashed for the car. That was it! A brief visit, but what we did see we loved.

Martina Franca

If you’ve never heard of Martina Franca, now’s the time to go—it still feels like a well-kept secret in these parts. It quickly became one of my favourite towns. The architecture is stunning, with its baroque details that reminded me of swirls of golden-toasted meringue.

Cisternino

Another adorable town — and if you have the time, it’s definitely worth a visit. We stopped in for lunch at Al Vecchio Fornello, a popular macelleria (that’s a butcher shop), but in the south, it’s more of a butcher-trattoria hybrid where they cook what they sell. Everything looks delicious…Afterward, we strolled through town to browse the local shops and soak up the atmosphere. Super cute!

Speziale

Don’t blink — you might miss this tiny village. Located along the main road en route to Ostuni, you’ll know you’ve arrived when the speed bumps slow you down. At first, we didn’t think much of it… until we stumbled upon Mini Market Crovace. A beloved family run spot that doubles as a grocery, deli, café, bar, and gelato shop, all in one. This place had everything — I was obsessed. They even sell children’s Vespas, in case you’re in the market for one.

Across the street, there’s a traditional deli packed with Italian goodies — perfect for an easy dinner spread. As we drove around, we noticed a few restaurants, each cuter than the last (sorry, but they really were). One place I was determined to try was Il Cortiletto. Housed in a plain white building, it’s anything but ordinary inside — a beautiful courtyard and a creative menu. Sadly, we couldn’t get in due to the Easter holiday. Don’t you hate when holidays interfere with your holiday? Definitely book ahead.

Lecce

Lecce is about an hour south of Ostuni. We were ready for a bit of a city break, and since Lecce (often called the “Florence of the South”) is a highlight on any Puglia itinerary, it felt like the perfect choice to stay here. It also makes a great base for exploring the southern part of the region and is easy to get in and out of. Two nights is enough to see Lecce itself, but if you’re planning day trips to the southern towns, consider adjusting your stay. We used one full day to explore Gallipoli and Nardò.

There were some fabulous restaurants, including Pietrabianca (pictured above), where we ate twice; Terra Il Pettolino, with a gorgeous garden patio; La Putea Osteria tucked away in a pretty vaulted courtyard; and Osteria203, a great spot for lunch or an aperitivo.

And for something fun, Quanto Basta is absolutely worth a visit. In 2023, it was ranked the top 10 bar teams in Europe. We went twice…IYKYK 🥃

Gallipoli

The old town is essentially an island, connected to the mainland by a bridge. We made the rookie mistake of trying to park inside, but it’s permit-only — save yourself the trouble and head straight to the large paid lot just outside the entrance. Get there early; we circled for a good half hour before finding a spot.

Gallipoli is an easy town to wander on foot. We stopped for coffee and soaked in the ocean views — as a Vancouver girl, I miss the sea, so this was a treat.

One heads-up: when we visited, there was no running water in the town. Yep, no running water. I have no idea how the locals were managing, but let’s just say I bought bottled water… to flush the toilet and wash my hands.

Nardo

After Gallipoli, we decided to make a quick visit to Nardo, which was basically on the way back to Lecce — and besides, we were getting hungry. Lunch, anyone? As we searched for the historic centre, we couldn’t help but notice how quiet it was. More like a ghost town. But once we arrived at Piazza Salandra — the vibrant, baroque heart of the old town — it all came to life. The square is beautiful, with stunning architecture and a great spot to pause and take it all in. Lunch was good too!

Matera

If you’re a James Bond fan (I happen to be travelling with one), you’ll probably recognize Matera from No Time to Die. Remember the motorcycle chase scene where Bond catapults over an enormous stone wall and lands—completely unscathed—right in front of a church? Classic 007, and this dramatic backdrop is very real.

The moment we arrived, I was completely taken by the views and the architecture — it’s breathtaking. Put Matera on your must-visit list; you won’t be disappointed. It’s about a 2-hour and 20-minute drive from Lecce… slightly longer if you make a lunch stop at McDonald’s en route (yep, we did that).

We stayed two nights in Matera, but you could easily do just one if you give yourself extra time the next day. And if you can swing it, try the cave hotel experience. It’s unlike anywhere else.

There’s no shortage of restaurants and bars in Matera — just be sure to make dinner reservations in advance. One fun discovery was Zipa Café, a quirky little coffee shop and bar carved into a grotto. Worth a visit.

Our Last Stop

Phew! Lucky you! 😉🥳

Bari

Bari was a real surprise. Our first impression — a chaotic 15-minute taxi ride to the airport to pick up our rental car — didn’t leave much of an impression. What we saw then was… meh. But when we returned at the end of our trip, we were genuinely wowed. We chose Bari for one reason: it had the only flight to Nice, where we were meeting my son and his girlfriend. Turns out, it was a great decision.

Gelato in Bari? No problem, it’s everywhere. But we were given strict instructions: “You must enjoy the best!” That meant one place only: Gelateria Gentile. Serving up delicious gelato since 1880.

We had 17 days to explore Puglia — probably a few days too many. Two weeks would be the sweet spot. In the summer months, definitely make time for the beaches — there are so many to choose from. And while we covered a lot, there were still places we didn’t get to. I guess we’re coming back!

One tip: plan your day trips around store and restaurant closures, especially on Sundays and Mondays, when many places shut down. It’ll save you some frustration (and hunger). Are you planning a trip to Puglia? Do you have any questions? I’d be glad to help. Please leave a message in the comments below.

Ciao! 🇮🇹

Next stop Nice…