Puglia surprised us — in the best way.

For 17 days, we wandered through whitewashed towns, explored dramatic coastlines, discovered unforgettable food, and even slept in a cave—okay, a fancy cave, but still! This wasn’t a whirlwind checklist trip; it was about soaking in the mood of the region. Neither of us had been to this area of Italy before and were very excited to explore it.

So, how do I write about a 17-day road trip in one blog post? I don’t. Instead, I’m sharing where we stayed — I’ll dive into our favourite towns, meals, and memorable moments in a separate post — there’s just too much to fit into one.

And before I get into it — yes, you definitely need a car to make the most of Puglia. We picked ours up at Bari Airport, where the selection was better and the rental offices had more flexible hours.

Masseria Le Torri (5 nights) – A peaceful base near the coast

We stayed at Le Torri, a fabulous home away from home, a destination in itself. Tucked away in the countryside with just 10 rooms, there are no crowds—just peace, charm, and beauty. The owners, Silvana and Mimmo, lovingly care for their Masseria, and it shows. Honestly, I could live here! It’s the perfect spot for exploring towns like Polignano a Mare, Alberobello, and Monopoli, to name a few.

The grounds at Le Torri are beautifully maintained, featuring lush greenery, lavender, citrus trees, and a tranquil atmosphere. The pool area was a definite highlight—perfect for soaking up the sun when it made an appearance. We were lucky to catch one sunny day before the sirocco winds swept in, bringing a bit of bluster. Regardless, there were plenty of beautiful little quiet places to relax.

The pool was calling my name, but unfortunately, the winds prevented that. Otherwise, it’s perfect for after a day of sightseeing.

We ate all our meals on-site, except for one lunch and one dinner—and honestly, the food was perfection. Breakfast was a generous selection served in the charming country-style dining room—I wanted to eat it all! Dinner featured an à la carte menu with options for every appetite and taste.

We stayed in Viola, a beautifully styled Superior Room with plenty of luggage space, storage (which is important when you’re travelling for one year!), and a lovely patio where we could unwind. I didn’t want to leave.

Masseria Il Frantoio (4 nights) – Great Location, Mixed Experience

We had high hopes for this stay — and while the setting was beautiful, the overall experience didn’t quite live up to expectations. That said, the location was excellent: just 10 minutes from Ostuni and within easy driving distance of several hill towns we fell in love with.

The grounds were lovely and breakfast was simple — though I’ll admit, we were still dreaming about the incredible spread at Le Torri. A highlight here is their traditional Pugliese tasting dinners (6 or 8 courses), which are definitely worth experiencing. However, unless you opt for one of these set menus — which are on the pricier side — there aren’t other dining options available to guests, so it’s good to have a back up plan. Thankfully there’s an adorable little deli in the town nearby.

The rooms had a more traditional feel, leaning a bit “nonna’s house” for our taste, and the hands-off service didn’t quite match what we’d hoped for. That said, the location was fantastic for exploring the area, and we ended up leaving a day early simply because we felt we’d seen and done most of what we wanted nearby.

Nearby towns; Ostuni, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino, Speziale. Also worth mentioning, but we ran out of time, Ceglie Messapica.

Palazzo de Noha, Lecce (4 nights) – A Standout Stay

This was easily another favourite hotel of the trip. Palazzo de Noha, a family-run hotel (father and son below), is beautifully designed — contemporary style with Lecce’s baroque charm — and incredibly welcoming (yes, there were welcome drinks!) It’s also a Michelin Key hotel, so you know it’s something special.

The rooftop pool, modern interiors, and warm staff made it feel like a true boutique luxury stay without being overly precious. It’s conveniently located in the historical center, which makes exploring easy. From here, we took a day trip to Gallipoli and Nardò.

Would we stay again? In a heartbeat.

Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita, Matera (2 nights) – Sleeping in History

If someone had told me I’d be sleeping in a cave on my trip to Italy, I probably would’ve thought they were crazy. But I did — for two unforgettable nights.

Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita in Matera is unlike anywhere I’ve ever stayed. That said, Matera is unlike anywhere I’ve ever been! The rooms are carved into ancient stone dwellings, minimalist and decorated with antiques. Think candlelit breakfasts served in an old church, stone bathtubs, and the quiet of sleeping inside a thousand-year-old cave.

It was surreal, romantic, and unlike any hotel we’ve ever experienced

If you’re visiting Matera, stay here if you can. It’s an experience you won’t forget.

Dillman Luxury Stay, Bari (2 nights) – A Chic City Finish

Our final stop was Bari, and Dillman Luxury Stay delivered — modern, clean, and stylish, it was the perfect way to wrap up the trip. And the location was central to everything.

Sleeping in a cave is great—until it’s not. I was ready for proper lighting, the sound of city life (you can’t take the city out of the girl), and—most importantly—a large enough mirror to finally blow dry my hair. We requested a room with a balcony—it was perfect!

Bari was charming, especially in the old town, where we enjoyed walking through a maze of little streets and low-key meals. But by this point in the trip, we were winding down.

Would we have extended this part of the journey? Probably not. Two nights were just right before heading off to our next stop: Nice.

Seventeen days and countless olive trees later, Puglia left its mark. This wasn’t just a vacation but a slow dive into one of Italy’s most quietly captivating regions. From sleeping in caves to sipping rosé on sun-drenched patios, we left with amazing experiences, fuller camera rolls, and a craving for another round of orecchiette.

If you’re planning a trip or just dreaming of one, be sure to check out my Puglia Highlights post (still in the works). In it, I’ll dive into our favourite towns, local food finds, and the moments that made this trip unforgettable. There were many.

Do you have questions about where to stay or planning your own Puglia trip? Drop them in the comments or send me a message—I’m happy to share what we learned! Have fun!