Back in Rome

The last time we were in Rome was two summers ago—for just one night! I know, crazy. You can read about our 24-hour adventure here. We made a last-minute decision to hop on a train from just outside Cortona, where we were staying. While we had fun and managed to hit a few highlights, the whole thing felt rushed, not to mention it was insanely busy and hotter than hot.

This time, we were ready to escape the chilly, windy weather in the Languedoc region. Thankfully, Rome was much warmer—yay! We had the luxury of time to wander the streets, pop into churches and shops, basically whatever we felt like on a whim. It’s the perfect way to visit.

Trastevere

It’s the oldest neighbourhood in Rome and one of my favourites, hands down! It’s lively with a bit of grit, full of restaurants and cafés, and rich with history. We stayed here for 11 nights at a lovely Airbnb; more on that below.

I love the colours of the buildings in Rome—they’re warm, a bit faded, but somehow still vibrant.

Trastevere, where the cool kids (and everyone else) hang out…

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome’s oldest churches. Its history dates back to the 340s, and much of the current structure was built between 1140 and 1143.

The climb up Janiculum Hill is well worth it for the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola—and the spectacular views over Rome are the cherry on top.

Every corner in Trastevere has something fun to photograph. Did I mention I purchased a new camera?! That said, my photos are getting out of control.

Who doesn’t love a classic red-and-white checkered tablecloth?

Classic Rome

Visiting during the low season made it much easier to show up without having every detail planned. However, you still need to book your Vatican visit. And if you’ve never been to Rome, Saint Peter’s is a must. The best part? It’s free!

Tip: If you take the Vatican tour, you can skip the line for Saint Peter’s Basilica for a small extra fee—and it’s totally worth it!

Altare della Patria is the massive white monument (I call it the wedding cake) in Piazza Venezia. Just beside it—tucked to the right if you’re facing it—is Santa Maria in Ara Coeli. It’s the brick-fronted church up a big staircase. Definitely worth the climb.

You can pay to walk through the ancient ruins of the Roman Forum, but honestly, you can see just as much from the outside for free.

This was my first time visiting Castel Sant’Angelo. It’s that large, cylinder-shaped fortress by the river—kinda weird-looking, but the views from the top are fabulous. The walk across the bridge to get there is just as good, with statues lining the way and St. Peter’s dome peeking in the background.

Piazza Navona—get in, get out—the fountains are lovely, but it’s a bit too touristy for my liking.

Here are a few of our favourite classic Roman moments…

Food

Every once in a while, you stumble on a true gem, and this place was no exception. Honestly, we were looking for a washroom. “We should probably order a coffee,” turned into, “okay, this place is actually great.” It had that perfect vibe—a real locals’ hangout. Enter: Antico Caffè del Teatro di Marcello (no website)…Now, I’ll warn you—it’s nothing fancy. But their sandwiches? To die for. No, seriously—we went back the next day.

Food is such a personal thing. I could send you running all over Rome for a “must-try” whatever—but here’s the honest truth (straight from an Italian): Italians won’t eat crap. And that? That was good intel.

I’m sooo over showing up to restaurants with huge lineups, just because someone blogged about them (ahem… I guess that’s me), or because they went viral on Instagram. When you’re out exploring, you’re not going to hop in an Uber and cross town just for lunch.

Skip the hard-sell places and the restaurants with a nonna in the window making pasta. Walk a few blocks away from the high-traffic areas, and you’ll find your own gem. There is so much wonderful food in Rome; explore and take a chance. In the worst-case scenario, you live on gelato, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

Where we stayed

For this trip, we wanted to settle in—to actually live in Rome, even just for a little while. Trastevere ended up being the perfect neighbourhood. It’s charming without trying too hard, with cobbled streets, pretty courtyards, and just the right amount of buzz.

La Cassetta Al Mattonato (The brick house)

Cute, cute, cute! Trust me, it’s not a brick house but an adorable apartment tucked away on a quiet street in Trastevere. The owners have lovingly restored this pied à terre with the utmost attention to detail. Best of all, the pretty patio has fantastic views of the gardens below. The only sounds are the distant church bells, but that’s all part of the charm.

Eleven days in Rome gave us time to slow down, soak it all in, and feel at home, especially in Trastevere. We wandered, ate well, got lost (on purpose), and found our own rhythm in the Eternal City. There’s still a lot we haven’t seen, but maybe that’s the best part—it gives us a reason to return.